Train & Rail Travel in Central Greece (see Greece train map)
Athens-Thessaloniki
This line links Greece's two largest cities with some 520km/322miles of track; the international standard gauge north/south Greek main rail line. It is a scenic route, and the IC now takes only 4 ½ hours. There are ten trains a day: five IC and five expresses, two of the latter overnight trains, one of which only carries passengers in couchettes or sleeping cars. Two local trains leave the main line at Lianokladi for Lamia, and for Stylis to the east. Two daily IC trains leave the main line at Larissa for Volos; two other locals go only as far as Larissa. One IC leaves the main line at Platy, just south of Thessaloniki, for Kozani to the west. South of Larissa, at Paleofarsalo, you can transfer from the main line to the railway linking Paleofarsalo with Kalambaka. There are spectacular views along this stretch of railway.
Oinoi to Thebes
The grand natural feature on the way to Thebes (in Greek, 'Thiva') is Mt. Parnassos, with its various peaks visible from the train windows on the left. Local trains stop at the villages of Tanagra, Eleon, and Ypaton before reaching Thebes station. Thebes is the main junction for all northbound and southbound IC trains.
Thebes-Livadhia
This route passed through the Teneric Plain, with little villages off to the left up in the hills with little stone stations. The area to the left of the line, in general, is very primitive. This is the hinterland above the northeastern end of the Gulf of Corinth, much of it inaccessible even by car. In these mountains is the Valley of the Muses, in the upper Permessos River area, where the Musean Games were held every four years, with music, poetry, and athletic contests (as in Olympia) which developed into a sanctuary connected with Dionysos. It was sacked by the Byzantine Constantine the Great. A fascinating area to explore, but totally without tourist amenities, so be forewarned. To the right side of the rail line is the drained plain of what was once Lake Kopais, filled with reeds, and once Greece's largest lake. It dries up during the summer months, but is a swamp the rest of the year. It is said that the reed that grows here was used for the ancient Greek 'aulos' (a reed pipe). Alexander the Great tried to drain the lake with tunnels but it wasn't until 1931 that the land was finally dry enough to plant grains and cotton.
All IC trains stop at Livadhia. This town of around 20,000 inhabitants is ensconsed in the hills almost 7km from the railway to the west. It is straddles the high banks of the Herkina River which is fed by mountain springs. Livadhia produces textiles and is a pleasant place to stop for those going on to Delphi, to the west. East of Livadhia is Orhomenos (ten minutes by local bus) with its ancient site ; twenty minutes further east near the village of Kastro is the Mycenaean citadel of Gla. Yet another road to the east leads through cultivated land to Atalanti, home of a very progressive wine producer, Ktima Hatzimikhali, where visitors are welcome for wine-tasting. To the west is the road around Mt. Parnassos and its lesser peaks, which continues on the Delphi and beyond, to the Gulf of Corinth. There are many interesting places to visit in this area, including the Byzantine Monastery of Ossios Loukas (via Disomo), and Arahova, which is a ski resort.
Livadhia to Heronia
Behind Livadhia the railway climbs up the eastern edge of Mt. Parnassos towards the Thessalian plain, and all the way to Larissa, traverses an area at once replete with historic sites and some of the most dramatic railway lines in Greece. Many daunting obstacles faced the construction of this stretch of railway, built between 1902 and 1909 by the French Societe Batignolles de Paris, including Mt. Iti and Othrys and some badly-drained plains, and it was acclaimed as one of Europe's most brilliant pieces of railroad engineering.
Heronia to Brallos Three small stations follow Heronia: Davlia, Parorion, and Kifissos.
From the station at Davila, which is 7.7 miles from the village of that name, you can backtrack to visit the ruins of ancient Panopeos, alleged home of Epeios, builder of the Trojan horse; from the village itself the ruins of ancient Daulis. The next train stop, at Tithorea is a starting point for hikes on Mt. Parnassos, which has two main peaks: Lyakoura (2475meters) and Yerontovarchos (2435meters). Parnassos was sacred to Dionysos in ancient Greece, and the Roman Ovid considered it the home of Apollo and the Muses. Despite the ski resorts (at Fterolakkas ) it still offers wonderful views and wildlife. There is a hostel for hikers at 1890 meters, at Katafiyion Sarantari, run by the Hellenic Alpine Club. From the station at Tithorea, hikers must proceed to the little village of Ano Tithoria to find the seven hour trail that ascends the mountain and descends another six hours via Delphi. There are springs about four hours into the hike, but that's it. Solid shoes and plenty of water are recommended. There's also an ancient path with a scary name: Kaki Skala (evil stairway) with takes about two full days via Lyakoura to Delphi, with the Corycian cave on the way down (sacred to Pan).
The next rail stop is at Amfiklia, a village of around 3500 inhabitants., which is also called Dadi, which is built on terraces, and has an acropolis with a Frankish tower. Beautiful mountain scenery follows from here. Next stop is Lilea, with a citadel with tall walls and towers. Brallos is an important junction that links Lamia with railways going west. A road leads off to the Pass of Thermopylae from here, where Leonidhas and his 300 Spartan soldiers fought valiantly during the Persian invasions of 480BC. The modern town of Thermopylae has thermal springs and baths and a hotel.
Brallos to Lianokladi
The rail begins climbing arduously up and over the Pass of Fournataki which connects Mt. Iti and Mt. Kalidromon. Best views are to be had from the right side of the train. Hikers can walk up to the mountain refuge on Mt. Kalidromon from the little station at Eleftherohori; Lianokladi further north is the starting point for hikes on Mt. Iti. There are some tiny shelters along the rail line from here which are request stops for locals; the rail passes long viaducts up high over mountain rivers and two long tunnels; one of the viaducts is that which was blown up over the Gorgopotamos River in 1942, by Greek guerillas and British commandos parachuted into the area, is in this area. The success of this action (known as the Harling Mission) disrupted Nazi supply lines for six months; the bridge was blown up by the retreating Nazis in 1944, to be rebuilt once again in 1948 (by US Army Engineers). There are trails around this area that were used during this mission. Lianokladi junction serves the 23km line east to Lamia and Stylis reopened in 1991. The main road west through Ipati for Karpenissi passes by the station; trailhead for Mt.Giona begin in Ipati.
Lamia & Hydrofoils for the Sporades
Fthiotida Prefecture
Lamia is a market town of around 50,000 population, and main town of the nomos (prefecture) of Fthiotidha, with a Catalan castle dating from the 14th century, and an archaeological museum with interesting finds. After Lamia, stops include the villages of Roditsa and Megali Vrissi, and the fishing village and beach of Aghia Marina on the coast, the end of the line at Stylis, port of Lamia, and once a major Aegean port. Stylis has around 5000 inhabitants; it may be the site of ancient Phaleron. Hydrofoils for the Sporades leave from here, and there are daily trains to Athens (3 hours). Reachable by bus from Lianokladhi, Ipati is on the north slope of Mt. Iti, (2152meters) where the heavily forested Iti National Park was established in 1966, with trails up to a refuge at 1850meters.
Karpenissi
Evritania Prefecture
Karpenissi, with a population of 6,000, is the only town of any size in the nomos of Evritania, beautifully situated at the base of Mt Timfrystos and at the head of a small valley encircled by mountains. The town was razed by the Nazis and rebuilt, though at first glance (and from a distance) it appears quite traditional. Sometimes known as the Switzerland of Greece Evritania is a region for trekking, kayaking, white-water rafting, mountaineering, and skiing. There are also some nice mountain villages near here.
Lianokladhi to Thessaloniki
Dramatic scenery continues north along the line from Lianokladhi; during the 126km stretch from there to Larissa the mountains are left behind and the Plain of Thessaly entered, but first there is Mt. Orthrys, the village stations of Lygaria, Stryfaka, Karia, Kallipefki and Aggie, with bridges and short tunnels, the summit of Mt. Moklouka , the drained Lake Xynias, the plain appearing for the first time just past Therme.
The first large village is this area is Domokos (population 2000) which is set on a rocky hill of 520 meters with classical walls near its center. It views of the plain spread out below it are its main highlight. Next comes the junction of Neo Monastiri, and then the junction of Palaiofarsalo.
Larissa
Larissa is the largest city in the plain of Thessaly and a junction station with a 61km standard gauge branch east to Volos, which leaves the main line north of this station. There are many trains daily to Volos from here. After Larissa the rail line heads into the Mt. Olympus range. By bus from Larissa, you can reach the town of Ajia which is a starting point for hikes to Mt. Ossa (1978meters). The main line from Domokos ends at Evangelismos village, near the entrance to the famous Vale of Tempi cut by the Pinios River. It was through this approach that Philip of Macedon moved his armies south into Greece. The motorway also cuts through the Vale, with the rail tunnel passing under it. Canoeing and hiking are popular in this area, and it is a superbly scenic site for railway photographers.
The village of Ambelaki (which means 'little vineyard') is reached on foot along an old kalderimi in about one hour from the Tempi rail station. It is also reachable by bus from Larissa with a walk down to Tempi. Ambelaki has turned into somewhat of a resort. It was known for its cottons and silks during the 1600s, and was given much autonomy during 18th century Turkish times; a prosperous town with democratic elections, free assemblies, and textile exports with branch offices in London. It reputedly established the world's first industrial cooperative - with an association of spinners and dyers, but all this ended when Ali Pasha destroyed the town in 1811, and a decade later the Viennese bank used by the cooperative collapsed. There are many grand mansions here with restored rococo interiors, one of them exhibited to the public.
The nearby village of Demetra is home to the fine Asterios Lellis wine producers (white and red wines); the winery can be visited by appointment (Tel/fax: 2410 50 32 471). The trains passes the Spring of Venus and the ruins of the Kastro tis Oraias, some forts, and stops at Aghia Paraskevi, where a pedestrian suspension bridge crosses the river to a chapel and grotto. Raspani in the northern foothills of Ossa has a wine cooperative, with a specialty red wine from local grape varieties, the winery open for tastings.
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