The Hill of the Muses - Philopappos Hill

The Hill of the Muses (Mouseion hill), also known by its modern name Philopappos Hill, is a little off the beaten track. For those willing to explore, first go to the church of Ayios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris. There you’ll see the remains of two ancient towers and a paved path that leads to the top, largely following the late 4th century BC fortification wall.

In 294 BC, the king of Macedon, Demetrios Poliorchetes (‘besieger of cities’) built a fort on the Mouseion hill, after the Athenians revolted against his presence. (Demetrios was initially welcomed, but misbehaved terribly, spending a winter partying in the Parthenon.) Some of the towers of his fort are still visible, some 70 m north of the summit. The Macedonian garrison was ousted in 286 BC.

The summit is crowned by the monumental tomb of C. Julius Antiochus Philopappos, dating to 114-116 AD. Philopappos, an exiled prince of Commagene in Syria, citizen of Athens and consul in Rome, received the exceptional honor of burial within the city walls.

The tomb is made of Pentelic marble, more than 12 m high, and richly decorated with sculpture. The frieze shows Philopappos as consul in his chariot, while a statue in the central niche depicts him as Athenian citizen. The left niche contains a statue of his grandfather Antiochus IV Epiphanes, the last king of Commagene, who was overthrown by Romans in 72 AD. The third statue is missing. Inscriptions in Greek list Philopappos’ princely titles, inscriptions in Latin the public offices he fulfilled as a Roman citizen.

Other remains on the Mousion Hill include traces of the early 5th century BC city wall, built under Themistokles, an ancient road with wheel ruts and Classical house remains. The latter often come in the form of rock-cuttings and cisterns, which were re-used as tombs in the Roman period. One of the rock-cuttings is – incorrectly – labeled ‘Socrates’ prison’. A more probable example of a Classical prison can be found in the ancient Agora.

Access: free. No facilities.

The Mousion Hill or Phillopapou Hill/Monument Athens Greece Tourism Guide

Right are the remains of The Monument of Phillopapou and center, one of many nice paths one may take upon The Hill of Phillopapou or the 'Mousion', (484 ft.)

Far right is walkable St. Sotiria church with its nice narthex and several domed cupolas.

The Hill/ Nice Romantic Sunsets!

A bit of nature; thoughtfully left to us by forbearing city reformers of all stripes, the Hill of Phillopapou lies just across Dionyssiou Areo Pagitou Street to the south of the Acropolis. Strategically advantageous to any besieger of the Acropolis too, come to think of it, with its lofty view of all the Attic valley and the sea.

It was from here, in 1687, that the fatefull shell, fired by the German, Count Konigsmark, then mercenarry Venetian artillery commander, struck the Turkish powder magazine, so cunningly and unexpectedly hidden in the Parthenon. That shell put the 1st serious dent in 2,200 years, of relatively unimpared artistic genius.

Of course, who knows really, how many of the columns, the Turks had already gleefully ground and crushed for whitewash purposes, or how many Lord Elgin, and his posse, in 1800, really carted off to England, thereby saving them from the ravages of the harsh Grecian climate?

Be that as it may, it's sizable, pleasantly shaded, pine filled slopes are where those, with active imaginations, will surely try to imagine life as it must have been, according to what period of Atticas' history has grabbed your fancy.

The swealtering heat and cleansing odor of the pines accompanied by the hypnotic drone of the "tzi-tzi-kas" (cycadias) beetles will warp you into the Greek experience as your tour guide probably can't. Neo-lithic, Pelasgian, Classical, Persian (very brief), Roman, Byzantine, Turkish, Venetian, Nazi.... and who knows who, they all must have sensed it as you will? Pehaps not. Hopefully you wont be as hung over as I was! Ouch! Say, is there a bathroom around here? (its in the bar/coffeshop/500 year old church you'll pass)..... Only in Greece!

Famous historical personages, savants, sages, supplicants, initiates, playwrites, philosophers, sculpters, theologians, emperors, sacred virgins, priestesses, sacred prostitutes, lovers, scoundrels, politicians and theives, they all trod these slopes; debated, fought, loved, cheated, starved, died and triumphed. At least here, one can wander away from the crowds and be alone with all these people... dont miss it!

The Monument of Phillopapou

Background of the Monuments namesake: Friend of Athens, Gaius Julius Antonichos Philopappos and grandson of Antiochos IV, last king of Commagene in Asia Minor. Roman Proconsul of Athens,100 AD., Prince of Syria, Citizen of Athens. He was exiled from Rome for political reasons but with all his booty.

Errected, 114-116 AD, of pendelic marble as a tomb, by the citizens of Athens to honor this benefactor of the city and destroyed in the 17th century, no one is sure, by whom. It was still intact in 1436 when described by Cyriacus of Ancona. The facade facing the Acropolis,and decorated with a frieze, shows Philopappos as consul driving his chariot. Above were 4 Corinthian columns which formed 3 niches. The central of which contains the statue of Philopappos as an Athenian citizen of the Deme (neighborhood) of Besa. In the left niche, his grandfather Antiochos IV Epiphanes, last king of Commagne who was dethroned by Vespasian. The tomb, which lay behind the facade, has few traces visible.

In 294 BC , Demetrios Poliorketes established a fortress of which, a little remains, to control the Piraeus rd. In 1916 Greek Royalist forces fired on allied troops from this vantage point. It was also the scene of activity during the colonels coup of 21 April, 1967.

It was from this summit that Morosini bombarded the Parthenon, 26, September 1687. (Morosini was the overall commander of the Venetian forces.) The Archeological Society of Athens made excavations there in 1898-99 and later, (the now defunct?) Ministry of Public Instruction restored the monument to its present state. Archeologists now concur that the graffiti was added quite recently with spray paint by 'O Malakas Yannis' from Athens' suburb of Galatsi. Not withstanding the high, ugly, metal fence.

Greece Travelers may take a luxury coach tour, rent a car or empower themselves with a private Oracle tour of their own design. Consider these other popular Greece travel destinations. If its on the Greek mainland Oracle can take you there in air conditioned & non-smoking security!

Athens, Cape Sounion, Ancient Corinth, Delphi & Ossios Lukas, Drama, Florina, Greneva, Chalkidiki, Imathia, Kastoria, Kavala, Kozani, Meteora, Mt. Athos, Mycenaea, Naufplion, Olympia, Pella and Vergina, Phillipi & Kavala, Dion & Mt Olympus, Sparta & Mystras, The Mani and Monemvasia, Thessaloniki,
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