Aptera The old Turkish stone fortress of Idzeddin east of Souda on steep Cape Kalami is now the Hania prison. Beyond here on a plateau is the site of ancient Aptera, (left) dated to the 11th century with 4km of massive walls; a Classical temple here (whose foundations remain),, as well as a theatre and a later Roman basilika., , as well as a monastery later built on top of huge Roman cisterns. It was a leading Cretan city in early Christian times. Unfortunately, you don't get to see much of it behind the fences.. At the top of the hill, though, from the remains of a Turkish fort (Koules pic below right) above the Izeddin fortress/prison, there are great views of Souda Bay, including the three small islands in the bay, which include Nea Souda bristling with military installations.
Kalives, a fair-sized market town, is near here on the old road and nearby Almiridha, a smaller place and a resort with a nice beach. Wind-surfers come here, as well as local families.
Inland a little ways is Stylos with its Minoan tomb (left). Stylos is the location of the last Allied stand made by the Australian and British during the Battle of Crete,their presence allowing most of the Allied troops to flee south along what was then the main road towards the Imvros gorge and Hora Sfakion, meanwhile becoming stranded themselves and seeking refuge in the nearby villages (some of which were destroyed in German reprisals for this). The detour towards Samonas is worth the difficult road for the church of Aghios Nikolaos at Kiriakoselia, with its incredible 13th century frescoes. You have to go to Samonas and find the guardians of the key, though. Ask around there.