Samaria Gorge

Hania Prefecture, Crete, Greece

The Samaria gorge, at 16 km, is the longest gorge in Europe and is a Greek National Park. Geologists theorize that the gorge was formed 14,000,000 years ago. The park is closed usually until May or until there is no danger of flash floods and the trek deemed safe. To check ahead of time, call the gorge information number: 28210 67 140.

Independent walkers must report to the guard house at Xiloskala before setting out. Various tour companies run daily escorted walks which include transportation to and from the gorge. Regular buses run from Chania to Omalas 1 km from the start point at 'Wooden stair' or Xiloskala. Upon completion if going north to south there are several guest house at Ag Roumeli. However no roads service this part of the Cretan coast, only ferry boats which run regularly to Hora Sfakion (east) and Sougia (west).

The danger of flash flooding must be taken very seriously, especially in late spring and early fall. In 1993, some walkers were washed out to sea and drowned.

The gorge is flanked by the Lefka Ori or White mountains on the east and Mt. Volakias on the west (2116 meters). The walk takes between five and seven hours depending on how slow you go and how much rest stopping you do. In places the gorge reaches 3.5 meters in width and has 22 separate springs and several caves. Of the over 450 species of flora and fauna 70 are endemic species found nowhere else. The gorge is also home to several species of animal found only on Crete: The Cretan wild goat or "agrimi", and the Cretan badger, martin, weasel and spiny mouse. Reptiles such as the wall lizard, tree frog and gecko call it home too. Birds too find its remoteness reassuring and the almost extinct griffon vulture, lammergeier, Bonelli's eagle and the golden eagle all roost here. Various trees thrive on particular slopes including: Cretan maple, pine, cypress, hollies, locust bean, lentisks and oleanders.

There are several micro-climates or Biotopes within the gorge each with their own particular geomorphology, climate and soil.

The park opens at 6am and closes at sunset; admission; 5 euros. Staying overnight at the top of the gorge (sleeping outside, though it can be very cold without heavy-duty sleeping bags) is probably the best way to beat the crowds by getting a very early start (and a increased chance of glimpsing eagles or vultures and crag martins before the spring at Neroutsiko. Staying in a room at Omalos won't get you there early enough.

The initial descent down the 'Wooden Staircase' (Xyloskalo) is very steep (from 1200 meters), but a delight with its pine forest and in spring, wild flowers. The Tarraios River which carved the gorge, flows through it to the sea at Aghia Roumeli (site of ancient Tarrha, Greco-Roman era). In spring, expect a lot of water. You'll see waterfalls, springs, and very tall cypresses as well as the rare peony (P.clusii) which is indigenous to Crete. The village of Samaria was actually inhabited until 1962, the inhabitants relocated with the establishment of the park. They were mostly members of a family who professed direct descent from the aristocracy of ancient Byzantium. Not much remains of the village. The warden's office is here(#20), and a public toilet. Floodwater cuts the village off during much of the year. Beyond it is the small 14th century church of Osia Maria, dated 1379 with some remains of frescoes.

The path levels out beyond the village and the cliffs narrow. You'll do a lot of crossing of the stream along here, and care must be taken with slippery rocks. Farther on is the chapel of Afendhis Kristos before the famous Iron Gates, where for 3-4km the vertical 600meter cliffs almost touch each other. Old Aghia Roumeli is reached about a half hour before the modern incarnation by the sea.

Present-day Aghia Roumeli is very overdeveloped, unattractive, and expensive. Get your boat ticket right away after the gorge walk for the destination from which you want to get the bus back to the north coast, if not planning to stay overnight in the south. Click here to return to the relevant, Chania Prefecture, portion of Harry's Greece Travel Guides.