The Mani

The Mani lies between the Lakonian and Messenian gulfs, and in a line between Githio (the ancient and modern port of Sparta) on the east coast and Kardhamyli on the west. To north the southern spur of the Tayetos mountain range, rising to a height of 1214meters/3970 feet, forms a promontory ending in Cape Tenaro/Matapan, the southernmost point of continental Greece, and one of the mythical entrances to the underworld.

This peninsular landmass is known as the Mani, and its people Maniots. It is a wild, arid, and rugged region with a wild and violent history, which persisted up till the end of the 19th century. The classic territory of the Mani is called the Mesa (Inner) Mani and is south of a line drawn between Vathy and Itylo Bays (from east to west). The Exo (Outer) Mani is north along the coast from Areopoli to Kalamata (and is largely in Messenia Prefecture).

The Mani , about 30 km in length, is a mountainous region that is mostly treeless and almost completely barren, though the hardy olive thrives there and land is cultivated wherever there is enough soil to shape a terrace. Small villages are often situated on seemingly inaccessible mountain ledges. The area was settled, and extensively so, during Neolithic times, and finds exists from the Myceneaen period as well, up until the 9th century BC. Ships were sent from there to Troy during Homeric times. The Dorians set up small city states which became satellites of Sparta and, with the decline of the latter, became the Confederation of Free Laconians, whose independence was recognized by Augustus while the rest of the Peloponnese was under Roman rule. Their descendants were the Maniots, whose spirit of independence continued. Until the reign of Basil I in the 9th century AD, they clung to paganism.

During the 10th to 12th centuries many churches were built and the Frankish invaders of the mid 13th century built or restored fortresses, but the Maniots succeeded remaining autonomous under a series of invaders: the Franks, Byzantines, Venetians and Ottoman Turks, against whom they revolted in 1769 and 1821. Revolts occurred as well during the Venetian occupation. The churches date mostly from the 11th and 12th centuries and are built in Byzantine style-smallish structures in the shape of the Greek cross with a dome above;the walls were made of a mixture of stone and brick, the latter in banded patterns. Some churches have gable end belfries, a feature possibly introduced by the Franks. There are also some marble fragments in places. Inside are frescoes, dating mostly from the 12th-14th centuries, executed in what is known as 'naïve' style. The churches are often out in the countryside and hard to reach. Then there is the problem of finding out in what neighboring house there might be a key.

The Maniots were also adventurers, settling in Corsica, where they formed communities under the Republic of Genoa during the 17th century. . They were described as 'pirates by sea' and 'pestilent robbers by land' by a British traveler and writer, the piracy centering in the Cycladic islands. One of the famous leaders in the Greek War of Independence--Petrobey Mavromikhalis-- was a Maniot. The Ottomans had chosen to deal with these fiercely independent people who had revolted against the preceding occupiers by granting them a certain level of autonomy, carried out by appointing certain clan leaders as 'Beys', who would then control all of the other clans, but the plan backfired finally when Petrobey Mavromikhalis (who had been appointed Bey) united the clans in a revolutionary army that was a vital element in liberation from the Turks and the subsequent formation of the Greek nation. The first president of the new nation however (Kapodistrias, who was seated at Nafplio), had Mavromikhalis and other members of his clan imprisoned when they challenged his authority, and was assassinated by Mavromikhalis' brothers. Ironically, the Maniots were later enlisted by the monarchy to form a special militia, in which they served willingly.

The feudal society of the Maniots developed during the 14th century. They lived in tribal villages under local chieftains and were known for their vendettas which sometimes went on for generations. An aristocracy arose from Byzantine refugee families known as Nyklians who were the only ones who had the privilege of erecting the marble roofed battle towers from which the vendettas were conducted, with the aim of destroying the towers and male members of the enemy clans. There were about 800 towers in all, both grouped in villages and isolated, their height increasing with the power of the family that built them. They were made of variously shaped blocks of stone and tower heights ranged from 15-25meters/50-80 feet high, were square in shape and comprised three or four rooms one above the other with ladders and trap doors in between. There were openings here and there in the walls where a gun or knife could be thrust out should a besieger attempt to scale the towers. Windows were few and small in size and the top floor crenellated in the style of fortresses. The villages of Kitta and Vathia in the south had the greatest concentrations of these towers.

Since the common method of attack was bringing down the tower roofs, the towers were consequently built higher and higher, to four and five stores. Church bells signaled the beginnings of feuds, upon which those involved would confine themselves to their towers and fire at each other. Both clans weren't always inside though, as weapons included swords and stiletto as well as guns and rocks, as the records of an 18th century Maniot surgeon lists wounds from all of these, and demonstrate that he never lacked for patients.

Women were exempt from attack and were responsible for bringing food, ammunition, and whatever other supplies were needed. One of the rather amusing rules that prevailed during extended feuds, was that during harvest season there would be a truce, when the fighting would stop so that the harvest could be brought in.

Feuds ended either by the destruction of a family in battle or by surrender of an entire clan who were required to kiss the hands of the victors who had lost 'guns' (male children) in the battle, after which the victors would decide under what terms the losers could remain in the village.

1870 was the date of the last major feud (in the village of Kitta) quelled by an army detachment. Patrick Leigh Fermor, a very fine observer and writer published one of the best books about this region and its people during the 1960s-titled 'The Mani' (Penguin Books).

Approaching the Mani from Githion

The Inner Mani

Approaching the Mani from Githion one passes olive and citrus orchards Passava is the site of a Turkish castle, formerly a Frankish castle rebuilt during the 18th century by the Turks. There have been fortresses on this site since Myceneaean times. The Turks abandoned the castle after a massacre by a Maniot clan in retribution for the arrest and execution by the Turks of their chief. Though a bit of a steep climb up, the views of both Githion and Vathy Bays are worth it. The fortress has a nearby twin named Kelefa. The latter has become quite dominated by tourists. Ayeranos has some tower houses, and from there are dirt roads, one of which leads to Skoutari which has a decent beach below it and some Roman remains. Karyoupoli also has a tower house. The landscape remains fertile after you leave Passava and head towards Areopoli until Mt Kouskouni.

Areopoli, on the peninsula's west coast is the center of the region of the Inner Mani since the modern road made it so, though in earlier times it was more of a gateway. It's name, which comes from Ares, god of war, was given it due to its having been the place where the Maniot uprising during the War of Independence was declared by Mavromikhalis (black-michael) , whose family church was the church of Aghios Ioannis. This church has frescoes in the 'naïve style. This large village is typically Maniot, with tradesmen's workshops, a bakery, churches and tower houses, the latter with a medieval appearance, but built during the early 19th century.

Dirou Caverns

Caverns open daily, June-Sept, 8am-5:30pm;Oct to May, 8am-2:30pm; 12euros). The museum (Tues-Sun; 8:30am-3pm; 3 euros) houses interesting Neolithic finds from the caves, with signs only in Greek.

The Dirou caverns near the village of the same name is the biggest tourist attraction in the Mani. Located 4km from the village, the caves are filled with water whose depth varies from 2 meters to 20meters. You must wait your turn to be taken on the little boat tour of the Glyfadha caves, which are well worth seeing, as the roof of the cave is crowded with stalactites which are reflected in the water. There is also a tour on foot of the Alepopetra caves, which are enormous chambers which were inhabited during prehistoric times. There is a beach adjacent to the caves.

The 17km stretch of coastal plain between Pyrgos Dhiroou and Yerolimenas is one of the more fertile parts of the Inner Mani, with dwarf olive trees. There are many villages off of the main road, mostly without facilities-few shops or public phones. There are many Byzantine churches in this area, dating from the 9th to the 14th centuries. If you are interested in churches, you might want a copy of the book 'Deep into Mani', by Peter Greenhalgh, since without it, you'll find them hard to locate. Many are locked, but keys can be asked for. Farther to the south, the small village of Mezapos has a deep harbor, and was once one of the main settlements of Mani. The building of the modern road has changed that, as it has made more areas accessible on land.

There is a nice walk to the 12th century church of Vlaherna, which has some fragments of frescoes. Stavri has rooms in traditional tower houses which are larger and in a more dramatic setting than those in Areopoli and Vathia. You can walk from this village to the 12th century church of the Episkopi, also with frescoes (though faded), and columns with Ionic capitals and a marble arch at the entry to iconostasis. The deserted village of Aghia Kyriaki has good views, and access to Tigani (Frying Pan) Peninsula with its fortress that seems to have been the main Castle of the Maina (Mani), constructed by the Frankish baron Guillaume de Villehardouin, who also constructed those of Mystra and Monemvasia, all of them ceded to the Byzantines in 1261. Inside its walls are ruins of a huge Byzantine church and many cisterns. The site is very arid.

The village of Kitta, where the last large feud was put down by the army in 1870, has remains of more than twenty tower houses, and was once the largest and most powerful village of the Mani, now largely abandoned. The battalion that quenched that last battle, consisted of four hundred soldiers. Nomia, Kitta's rival village, is visible from Kitta, with its own towers. Boularii is one of the most interesting of the Inner Mani villages, with towers and twenty churches, the latter including 10th century Aghios Pandeleimon and 11th century Aghios Stratigos, the latter with marvelous frescoes that span the 12th through the 18th centuries. Ask at the post office in Yerolimenas for keys at the post office. Gerolimenas (left) is a good base for exploring the southernmost part of the Inner Mani.

South from there is Alika (with bus service), and from there the road forks to the east through the mountains to Layia, (which has towers) and the other to Vathia and across the small peninsula to Paliros, with good coves for swimming between Alika and Vathia-especially Kyparissos, reached via a dry riverbed. The remains of ancient Roman Kaenipolis is above it, including the excavated ruins of a 6th century basilika.

Vathia is a village of tower houses set up on a rocky, desolate hill, described in the travel accounts of Colonel Leake (19th century),who was warned against going through there in 1805 due to a continuing feud that had been going on for forty years between two families. Some dozen tower houses were restored as an inn for tourist accommodation by EOT (the Greek tourist agency) but later went bankrupt.

Though also mostly abandoned the village is still impressive, and one can walk the stony paths that wind between the deserted towers and climb to the top of the hill, where magnificent views of Cape Tenaro./Matapan are to be enjoyed.

Porto Kayio (Quail Port), located on the neck of a very steep peninsula, has good rooms and some tavernas. Ruins of a Turkish fortress are across the bay, and the monastery of Korogonianika. On the double bay of Marmari are good sandy beaches. The chapel of Asomati was built from materials taken from an ancient temple of Poseidon. The bay there has a small cave, which is among those claimed as the mythical entrance to Hades (the Greek underworld). A nearby path leads to a cove with foundations of a Roman town with a mosaic. Along a walled path one can catch great panoramic views of the sea to the lighthouse on Cape Tenaro (about 25 minutes away).

If you head north from Layia the road beyond Aghios Kyprianos skirts the east coast of the Mani, which is less windy and generally less un welcoming than the west coast (though some writers (like me) claim that it is more barren and harsher, with less beaches, less coastal plain, and the villages all up on hillsides) . There are, however, wonderful views from the easter coast road of the coastline with its bays, occasional villages and ruins on mountain slopes. Kokkala (which means 'bones') is an appealing and sheltered inlet with a church by the water (which can be walked to in about 1 ½ hours from Layia), while Flomohori,quite a bit to the north, is a typical Maniot village with tall towers and, in this case, cypress trees. The land is relatively fertile here on this uninhabited stretch of coastline, and the village has retained some population. Kotronas is a fishing port and small seaside resort on the edge of a bay. The east coast is also easy to get to from Areopoli, where you can drive across either either northeast to Vathy Bay (with a side road cutting couth to Skoutari) or to Kotronas, going southeast.

The Exo Mani (Outer Mani)

The Exo Mani (Outer Mani) features a beautiful 40km stretch of road between Areopoli and Kalamata (which is located in Messinia Province), a road which hugs the west coastline of the Mani peninsula. The first towns on the way are very classic Maniot villages and further on, a few small resorts which have kept some character so far. In Limeni, the port of Areopoli, is the restored tower house of Petrobey Mavromikhalis. There are some rooms and tavernas in this little port. Mostly paralleling the main road is a kalderimi (cobbled path) which has been well preserved. You can find it just beyond Itylo (to the north) and just below the road. North of Kardhamyli is a very fine gorge hike.

Itylo was the old capital of the Mani, and a base during the 16th century for both piracy and slave trading. The Maniots were adept at selling slaves between the various occupying peoples (Turks to Venetians, Venetians to Turks, women of opposing clans, etc.. The nearby Kelefa castle was built by the Turks in 1670 in an effort to control the piracy and to control the pass to the north. You can walk to it from Itylo, but must cross a gorge to do so (though it is only one km distant). Its walls have been very well preserved. Towards the coast from here is the monastery of Dhekoulou with 18th century frescoes in its chapel. Neo Itylo, though very small, offers some rooms and even a luxury hotel. Karlovassi was the ancient seaport of Itylo.

Continuing north, interesting towns include Langadha, which virtually teems with towers; Nomitsis which has three frescoed Byzantine churches and more to the north, including that of Metamorfosis with sculpted animal capitals. In Thalames is the Museum of Maniot Folklore and History (April to September, daily 9am-4pm; 2.50euros). Though it isn't much of a museum, you can buy local honey and olive oil there. South of Aghios Nikolaos you will find the first of the Pantzazi beach, which is a really pleasant spot, with a small village harbor with tavernas, cafes, and old stone houses, as well as trees shading the beach. Rooms are available here.

Stoupa to the north is more developed (and often much too crowded in high season) due to its two beautiful sandy beaches (Stoupa and Kalogria-the latter name meaning 'nun'). A headland separates the two beaches. The bay is clean and cold, fed by freshwater springs from under the sea. There are many great walks from here, with many paths that include some beautiful kalderimia and interesting villages and even a good walking guide brochure and map available.

To the north of Stoupa a short distance is the cove of Delphini (dolphin), and further on, the pebble beach of Fonea. The major resort of Kardhamyli is 10km north of Stoupa. The long beach is of the pebble variety, with olives groves behind it. Old Kardhamyli has partly restored tower houses (abandoned) near the 18th century church of Aghios Spyridhon . Time spent walking around the vicinity of Kardhamyli is time well spent, and especially the huge Vyros gorge, which meets the sea just north of the resort, and which is intersecting from various paths to and from the mountains that hem it. There are two monasteries at the bottom of the cliffs in the gorge. The church of Aghia Sophia is reached by kalderimi from Old Kardhamyli; the hamlet of Exohori is another possible destination. West of the road to Kalamata you'll find Avia and Akroyiali-both small resorts, as well as Santova beach, which has bungalows for rent.

Harry's Maniot Impressions

OK I admit it, on my first visit I was in a hurry and from Gythion made the mistake of going down the eastern coast of the peninsula instead of going to Aeropolis as recommended above. Learn from my mistake but I still stand by these impressions.

Maniots and travelogue writers tell you "You have to visit the Mani" or "You simply must visit the Mani" or "Did you go to the Mani?" or "We went to the Mani". So I finally packed up my bag and went to the Mani. What a let down. Yawn! Gee yet another stone built house in Greece only its three stories high instead of two... how fascinating...NOT!

About the only claim to fame the the Mani really has besides being at the end of the earth is "Maniots are fiercely independent"! So independent in fact that even the Turks left them alone and I figured out why and am going to share it with you: there is nothing worth stealing in the Mani. In fact the Maniots were pirates and thieves of a major order themselves because they could not survive on what was available otherwise. There are better, friendlier, more accessible, beaches, caves and views elsewhere.

The Mani, to be fair, is impeccably clean and its topography dramatic, but all of Greece is dramatic so you don't have to drive all the way to the end of Cape Teneron (left) to experience it and when you finally arrive its not exactly inviting. If you are scouting locations for the witness protection program then it may be worth a visit. How about a road sign or a gas station or some vestige of humanity please? Maybe I had one of those twilight zone moments and took every wrong turn and ended up in a parallel dimension but maybe not.

Looking around for something to do I dragged my poor girlfriend, who hates enclosed, damp and wet spaces into the Diros caverns, which as caverns go, were very nice, wet, damp, dark, cold. You take a little boat and the man sculls you around so keep your hands in the boat or you will break a bone and knock off a precious stalagmite or stalactite and be fined and probably not be allowed to keep it a souvenir either.

Maybe I didn't give the Mani the attention it deserves but although I saw some nice beaches, always tantalizingly around the next bend, its not a user friendly type of place and I don't mean mass tourism oriented. I mean there are hardly any signs, places to eat or to even use the toilet. There was absolutely no shade or greenery either when I went the first time which was in summer.

Paul, the honest Greek taxi driver and manager of Oracle private bus and taxi tours, being from Sparta, may know how to show you a good time in the Mani and I guess if you are visiting Monemvasia its certainly worth driving around. I am sure, to while away the endless hours, they make some really strong and intoxicating alcoholic beverages in the Mani .. illicitly of course!