Metsovo Mountain Village in Ioannina Prefecture Page 3

Metsovo is just west of the Katara Pass, built on terraces of the steep mountain slope separated from Mt. Zygos (1555 meters) by two deep ravines. Beech and pine trees grow on the slope, and bears and wolves survive in these forests. Another ravine-that of the Metsovitikos river, a tributary of the Arakhthos-- separates the two parts of the village as well.

The side of town exposed to the sun is called 'Prosilio' (literally, 'towards the sun') and 'Anilio' (without sun); the two parts are linked by a bridge. Views in all directions from the town are beautiful, with high peaks to the south and east, and the mountain air is bracing. All five of Pindos' rivers have their headwaters near Metsovo. The houses of the village are made of stone with wooden balconies, and are of two stories. Unfortunately many of the old stone roofs have been replaced by cheap factory tiles.

The houses are linked by kalderimia (cobbled paths or streets) some of them quite steep, and descend in tiers to the main platia below. Metsovo is known as a place where you'll still glimpse people in traditional costumes, the men in baggy trousers or pleated 'fustanellas', and 'tasarouhia' (clogs with pom poms), the women in skirt, blouse and embroidered apron, and dark head scarves ,though the natural charm of the town has been marred by its becoming too popular and a bit 'quaint'. Souvenir shops selling pseudo-traditional textiles and wooden items abound; the town is frequented in summer by bus tours of Greeks. Like so many places in modern Greece, it is best visited on the off-season, before or after the hordes.

Still, Metsovo is a town where traditional crafts such as barrel making, weaving, wine and cheese production are still practiced here. Very good red wine is made in Metsovo, the vineyards among the highest in the world, at 850-900 meters (2788-2952feet). For wine tasting in the village, ask the locals for details.

The Averoff Gallery has a permanent collection of 19th and 20th century paintings and sculptures by Greek artists. The Arhondiko Tonitsa (Tonitsa mansion) houses the museum, the building itself beautifully restored, with paneled rooms, rugs, Ipirot crafts and costumes. It is open daily except Thursday, in summer 9:30-4:30 and 1pm-6pm; winter 3-5pm; 3 euros admission.

The 14th century Monastery of Aghios Nikolaos is reachable on foot (about twenty minutes) on a road below the town which goes to Anilo. It has an interesting katholikon, with a woman's gallery on top where the narthex may have once been. There are wonderful frescoes painted in a rather unusual style. Funds from the Tonitsa Foundation financed their restoration and illumination during the 1980s. There are monks'cells (though no monks there any longer) with walls made of mud and straw; there are also the abbot's quarters. A custodian couple live at the monastery and will show visitors around up until 7:30 pm. No admission, though it is customary to leave a small donation or buy some of the postcards sold there. At Mt. Karakoli there is a ski lift.

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