Kastoria Western Macedonia Page 3

Taxiarkhis Mitropoleos Capitals from an early Christian basilika on the site are here, which may have been a funerary chapel for local officials who are depicted on external walls on the south and west. 9th century frescoes can be seen inside on the east walls of the aisles and the narthex, though elsewhere in the church they were painted over in the 17th century. The Virgin is depicted in the apse, flanked by archangels Michael and Gabriel and figures in the Passion Scenes of the upper wall in the nave are quite impressive. Aghios Stefanos this church was built during the 9th century and was most likely a bishop's church. The closed porch on two of its side was added later. Frescoes in the vault of the nave date from the 12th century; on the south wall are the 'Nativity' and the 'Purificiation'. 9th century frescoes have been preserved in much of the church and narthex. A unique feature in the churches of this city is the stairway leading to the women's gallery.

Aghios Nikolaos Kasnidzis is below Platia Omonia. This church dates from the 12th century ;its external frescoes are mostly faded, though if you look at the apse, some traces can be discerned. The donors are depicted in the narthex as well as the miracles of Aghios Nikolaos (Saint Nikolaos). 12th century frescoes are found in the nave, depiction 'The Dormition of the Virgin' and warrior saints.

Monastery of Panaghia Mavriotissa

This monastery is about halfway along the 9km walk by the lake around the peninsula on which the city of Kastoria sits. Twin churches grace this Macedonian style monastery: the Church of the Virgin (Panaghia), dating from around 1000, with 13th century frescoes, including the the fascinating 'Tree of Jesse', with the Apostles on the branches surrounding the Virgin, and and a figure which might be the emporer Mikhalis VII Paleologos and his brother Ioannis. There are also two groups of the damned, one of them being reprimanded by angels, and the damned with long teeth; the Last Judgment. There are also some 12th century frescoes. The other church is the Chapel of Aghios Ioannis Theologos ('theologos' meaning 'evangelist' in Greek) , built in the 16th century. There's a campsite near the monastery, run by the custodian-priest.

Around the Lake

The walk along the lake (9km) that surrounds Kastoria is a pleasant diversion while staying here, the narrow paved road that flanks the water making walking or bicycling easy. Vehicles are required to drive counter clockwise, limiting their intrusion on pedestrians. Swimming might be possible only at some distance from the city, and perhaps not so desirable even there, as pollution in the lake is visible. Still, water snakes, fish, frogs and tortoises survive there. Mt. Grammos , at 2520 meters, rises up in the background. With adjacent Mt. Vitsi (at 2360 meters), it forms the border with Albania. There are trails from Kastoria leading up through the valley of the Sarandopotamos river to the summit of Grammos and onethat leads to the source of the Aliakmon River.

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