Mt. Pilion (Pilio, Pelio) Magnesia Prefecture Page 4

Zagora

The left fork goes northeast to Zagora, major apple producer and fruit packer of Greece. Sadly, overuse of pesticides and soil depletion have brought the orchards close to their demise (according to government research). Monoculture has contributed to the problem, and other crops (including raspberries) have been proposed. There is strong local resistance to tourism, coupled with the commitment to the successful orchard farming that made independence from it possible. The village has a population of around 3000, with four hamlets on the east coast facing the Aegean, each with beautiful neoclassical mansions, and its own platia with a huge plane tree above.

Aghia Kyriaki is the central hamlet. Despite the predominance of the apple, the countryside surrounding Zagora is also noted for a variety of other fruits, including plums, damsons, pears, peaches, fraises de bois, and for its wine. North of Zagora is Pouri, in a stunning setting up over the sea, with two beautiful, uncrowded beaches down below: Elitsa and Ovrios (but you get to them on a dirt-road from Horefto). There are some rugged hikes that begin in Pouri for the very energetic and fit.

A good sandy beach lies below Zagora 8km (about 5miles down) at Horefto (beach right), and on the road to it, a gallery/folk museum open during July and August.

There are actually several beaches, a very good one in front of the village, and others at Aghia Saranda and Analypsi, the latter with coves, one of which has a spring to drink from. Horefto was once a fishing village (like many tourist spots by the sea all over Greece), but now there are quite a few rooms and a number of hotels there.

South of Zagora is Kissos, but you have to go back to the fork to reach it and turn left to get to it and the other villages to the south. Kissos (which means 'ivy') is a very green place in a very lovely area, with houses on terraced hills and the 18th century church of Aghia Marina, which is one of Pilio's best. Unfortunately, it's locked up (pictured above left).

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